Kharkiv: Olga, early 20s is the most interesting restaurant car employee I ever met.

“I am studying Law at University in Kyiv but I don’t like it. Lawyers are like parasites of life. It’s so dry, so boring, you can’t read the stuff they give you. Then you have to learn it all.

“I have to do this job to help pay the bills. I love it, I would do it without payment – you meet so many interesting people here.”

The other restaurant staff – all young men – clearlyconsider her the top dog. One grabs her from behind – I hope he’s her boyfriend – and  ‘tickles’ her high on the rib cage. It would count as an indecent assault back in the UK. She backs into the fridge so that no one else can surprise her.

Another customer, over for the football, chats with her and he’s quite taken too. He departs the carriage, saying cheerily: “Right, I’m over here.”

She slaps the counter like a kickass bargirl from a Western and snaps smartly: “And I’m RIGHT over here!”